Testimonial

★★★★ (4/5 stars)

Let me begin by saying that David Casas and Retorno Photo Tours have ruined me.

Completely and utterly ruined me — for ordinary life, for backyard birding, for any destination that isn’t Colombia. I have now traveled with David twice, and I will almost certainly go again, because apparently I am the kind of person who learns nothing from experience. I mean that as a compliment.

The Birds

Spectacular. Full stop. My December trip to the Bogotá region delivered the Spectacled Bear and the Bogota Rail — two bucket-list encounters that I still can’t quite believe happened. Then in April I returned with David to the Coffee Axis, and friends, the birds were absurd. Absurd in the best possible way. The kind of absurd where you keep lowering your camera to just… look. With your actual eyes. Like a person who didn’t pay for a plane ticket specifically to see these things through a lens.

David knows this country the way most of us know our own neighborhoods, and his eye for finding birds — and positioning photographers to capture them — is genuinely exceptional. If you are serious about wildlife photography and Colombia is on your radar, Retorno Photo Tours belongs on your shortlist.

The Accommodations: A Love Letter to Insects

Now. Let us talk about the rooms.

I want to be measured here, because I am a nature photographer and I understand that we are, by definition, in nature. I have made peace with the outdoors. What I was less prepared for was the indoors also being the outdoors. Several of our accommodations appeared to have hosted significant insect gatherings prior to our arrival — and while the living guests had largely moved on, their departed companions had been lovingly preserved in place. On the floors. In the corners. As a kind of artistic installation, perhaps. A memorial.

I will simply say: if you are the type of traveler who requires your room to have been swept within the current calendar year, perhaps flag that in advance. If, on the other hand, you view a deceased moth collection as ambiance, you will feel right at home.

The Road: An Ode to My Bursitis

One of our destinations required two full days driving an unpaved road through a national park. The scenery was breathtaking. The birding was extraordinary. My hips, however, have filed a formal complaint and are still processing the experience — two weeks later and I am walking like I lost an argument with the Andes, which, to be fair, I did. The bursitis flared, the IT bands staged a protest, and various other muscles I had previously taken for granted joined the picket line.

I’d gently suggest to David that one day on this particular road might deliver ninety percent of the reward at fifty percent of the orthopedic cost. Something to consider — especially for those of us who are, let’s say, seasoned travelers of a certain vintage. (I’m 59. I earned the right to say that.)

The Military Incident: A Story I Will Tell For The Rest of My Life

Here is something nobody mentioned in the pre-trip briefing: the Colombian military patrols that road. Regularly. In force.

Nature, as I have noted, offers no facilities. As a 59-year-old woman navigating a remote unpaved road with no restrooms, one eventually reaches a point of negotiation with one’s own biology. I had reached that point. I found what I believed to be a discreet location. I made my arrangements.

Reader, the military arrived.

More than a dozen officers. Professional, kind, and — I choose to believe — deeply committed to not acknowledging what they had almost certainly just witnessed. What followed was one of the more delightful and unexpected encounters of my birding career: introductions were made, laughs were shared, and photographs were taken. I have now bonded with members of the Colombian armed forces under circumstances I could not have scripted if I tried.

No regrets.

In Summary

Retorno Photo Tours delivers on what matters most: extraordinary access to Colombia’s birds, a guide who is passionate and deeply knowledgeable, and photographic opportunities that will make your shutter finger very, very happy. Bring your own broom, request the smoothest road option if your body has opinions, and — for the love of everything — ask about the military patrol schedule before making any roadside biological decisions.

Would I go again? I’m already looking at the calendar.

David Casas Answer: 

Dear Shannon,

Your review absolutely made my day! I'm cracking up at how you captured this adventure - it's like you read my mind and put it into words better than I ever could. Seriously, you nailed every single detail!

Thank you for being part of this crazy dream of mine to show off my beloved country and help our local communities along the way. It means the world to me that you trusted me not just once, but TWICE for back-to-back Colombian adventures. I mean, either you really love what we do, or you're a glutton for punishment! 😄

Honestly, though, having you return for a second trip is the best compliment I could ask for. It tells me we're doing something right, and that makes all the early morning bird calls and muddy hiking boots totally worth it.

Thanks for being such an amazing part of the Retorno family - you're not just a client, you're proof that this whole adventure is working exactly as we dreamed it would.

Can't wait to see where your next Colombian adventure takes you!

With huge gratitude and probably too much caffeine,

David Casas.