Hummingbirds Testimonial by Juan Bahamon

by Juan Bahamon

FACEBOOK @juan.bahamon.94

From April 19 to 22, I traveled to the high páramos surrounding the Nevado del Ruiz volcano in central Colombia in search of one of the most unusual hummingbirds in the Andes: the Buffy Helmetcrest, Oxypogon stuebelii, known locally as “El Chivito del Páramo del Ruiz.”

The trip was organized by the Bogotá-based agency Retorno Photo Tours, which handled all logistics efficiently, including transportation, lodging, a bird guide, and meals. Upon my arrival at the airport in Pereira, the driver (Guillermo) was already waiting for me. After an approximately three-hour drive climbing into the misty highlands, I arrived to the hotel Termales del Ruiz. The accommodations were comfortable, the food was good, and, importantly for someone who still likes to stay connected, the internet service was reliable despite the remote location.

The following morning, I met my bird guide, Juan Arbelaez, whose knowledge of the region and its birds was excellent. We headed toward La Brisa, near the entrance ranger station of Los Nevados National Park. The weather was cold but clear enough, and almost immediately the star of the trip appeared. There, perched in the open páramo vegetation, was the Chivito in all its glory. I was fortunate to photograph the bird under good conditions, capturing the extravagant crest and shimmering gorget that make this species so remarkable.

That afternoon we searched for additional photographic opportunities in the open fields of the páramo, but persistent rain and poor light made photography difficult. The following morning, we returned to La Brisa hoping for another encounter, but this time the hummingbird never appeared. Such are the realities of wildlife photography in the Andes: patience is mandatory, and nature makes no guarantees.

On the final day, we traveled toward Manizales searching for another specialty species, the Chocó Daggerbill. Unfortunately, despite our efforts, luck was not on our side, and the bird remained hidden from us.

From Pereira, I returned to Bogotá carrying memories of the cold páramo, the dramatic Andean scenery, and, most importantly, the privilege of seeing one of Colombia’s most iconic high-altitude hummingbirds in its natural habitat.

Overall, I can recommend Retorno Photo Tours without hesitation. The driver and guide were serious, punctual, and knowledgeable throughout the trip. I always felt safe during the journey, even while traveling through remote mountain roads and difficult weather conditions. Communication was smooth, the logistics were well organized, and the overall experience was pleasant and professional. I also found their fees to be reasonable considering the transportation, lodging, guiding services, and the complexity of reaching these high Andean locations.